SS won't start, missing key chip/resistor, what resistor for resistor mod on VATS????
06-16-2007, 06:50 PM
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SS won't start, missing key chip/resistor, what resistor for resistor mod on VATS???? Hi, I drove my 2000 SS M6 home from work yesterday with no issue. Today, car won't start. Noticed the chip deal is missing from the key, I did find it but it doesn't seem to cure the problem by putting it back in the key.
I have noticed when sitting in the car at lunch sometimes that the security light will keep flashing. I take this to mean that I was actually already having an issue with the chip/ key contacts or something.
Car has no battery issue. Just had a charger on it. Didn't expect any issue really as the gauges come up strong as well as everything else like window etc seeming to work fine.
Now, I've got a volt meter. Though I'm not familliar with useing it. I'm not sure what setting to put it on. Regardless, the little key chip seems to not read when I touch the volt meter probes to each side of it.
Anyboy have input on what resistor rating I should be shooting for if I try the resistor mod???? Whether two resistors in series each way, or one. However the mod works.
Any input would be greatly appreciated as this is my current transpo, thanks.
I have noticed when sitting in the car at lunch sometimes that the security light will keep flashing. I take this to mean that I was actually already having an issue with the chip/ key contacts or something.
Car has no battery issue. Just had a charger on it. Didn't expect any issue really as the gauges come up strong as well as everything else like window etc seeming to work fine.
Now, I've got a volt meter. Though I'm not familliar with useing it. I'm not sure what setting to put it on. Regardless, the little key chip seems to not read when I touch the volt meter probes to each side of it.
Anyboy have input on what resistor rating I should be shooting for if I try the resistor mod???? Whether two resistors in series each way, or one. However the mod works.
Any input would be greatly appreciated as this is my current transpo, thanks.
06-16-2007, 07:30 PM
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Thanks, I did spot that option. It seems I may be having a contact issue though. Which would mean replacing the switch itself. Or tumbler. I'll explore all possible options, but it does seem that I might be another candidate for the resistor mod for the VATS.
I need to know the resistor rating people are useing as mine seems to be f'd.
I need to know the resistor rating people are useing as mine seems to be f'd.
06-16-2007, 08:03 PM
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well there are more than 10 diffrent resistors it really depends on you specific key. you can take it to the dealership and they can stick it in a machine they have and tell you the resistor value. or you can hook it up to a voltmeter and set it on ohms. get enough resistors to match the key then do the resistor mod. i just grabbed 5 that added up to the keys ohms and tied all the ends together. once in ohms just keep switching between the setting untill you get a X.xx number and go get you resistors
Last edited by 6-Speed Terror; 06-16-2007 at 08:09 PM.
06-17-2007, 02:23 PM
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Thanks for the details.
The little resistor chip deal is out of the key and I can't seem to get any reading on it at all when I touch my volt meter to it. My volt meter reads a resistor I had laying around, but its like I'm not even touching the key chip. As often happens, this seems like it isn't going to be simple. If I could just read the damn thing I'd run up to Radio Shack and grab some resistors.
I poped the chip back in the key earlier to try and start the car. Issue still exists. Gauges come up and everything has plenty of power. Its just like it doesn't recognise the key. Or, my ignition switch itself took an instant dump.
Sure wish I could read this damn little chip. At this point, since I can't even seem to get a reading off the little chip.......I'm thinking of removing the plastic on it to see if I can't get at the actual resistor inside to possibly get a reading off the thing.
Thoughts?
The little resistor chip deal is out of the key and I can't seem to get any reading on it at all when I touch my volt meter to it. My volt meter reads a resistor I had laying around, but its like I'm not even touching the key chip. As often happens, this seems like it isn't going to be simple. If I could just read the damn thing I'd run up to Radio Shack and grab some resistors.
I poped the chip back in the key earlier to try and start the car. Issue still exists. Gauges come up and everything has plenty of power. Its just like it doesn't recognise the key. Or, my ignition switch itself took an instant dump.
Sure wish I could read this damn little chip. At this point, since I can't even seem to get a reading off the little chip.......I'm thinking of removing the plastic on it to see if I can't get at the actual resistor inside to possibly get a reading off the thing.
Thoughts?
06-17-2007, 07:25 PM
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So, I've been scraping away the plastic on the little resistor pellet hopeing I could get a connection with my meters probes. No dice, the pellet wound up having one of the metal connection tangs coming out of it broken off that side of the resistor. Also hoped I might see some markings that might help me determine its resistance rating. Also no dice.
I came across this chart that leaves me wondering how or if I could tell what VATS code mine is.
12VoltParts - GM VATS System Bypass Kit
Use Color P/N Vats Code GM Value Ω
Orange, White, Red, Black RES390 - 392
Green, Red, Orange Black RES510 CN 523
Blue, Gray Brown, Black RES680 FW 681
Gray, Gray, Violet, Black RES910 GP 887
Brown, Brown, Orange, Brown RES1.1K KA 1130
Brown, Yellow, Violet, Brown RES1.5K N5 1470
Brown, Gray, Violet, Brown RES1.8K UN 1870
Red, Orange, Violet, Brown RES2.4K XB 2370
Orange, Black, Brown, Brown RES3.0K GA 3010
Orange, Violet, Yellow, Brown RES3.6K NP 3740
Yellow, Violet, Green, Brown RES4.7K FY 4750
Blue, Black, Yellow, Brown RES6.2K C5 6040
Violet, Green, Black, Brown RES7.5K XY 7500
White, Green, Orange, Brown RES10K KB 9530
Brown, Brown, Gray, Red RES12K UW 11800
Where is the VATS module deal located????
I came across this chart that leaves me wondering how or if I could tell what VATS code mine is.
12VoltParts - GM VATS System Bypass Kit
Use Color P/N Vats Code GM Value Ω
Orange, White, Red, Black RES390 - 392
Green, Red, Orange Black RES510 CN 523
Blue, Gray Brown, Black RES680 FW 681
Gray, Gray, Violet, Black RES910 GP 887
Brown, Brown, Orange, Brown RES1.1K KA 1130
Brown, Yellow, Violet, Brown RES1.5K N5 1470
Brown, Gray, Violet, Brown RES1.8K UN 1870
Red, Orange, Violet, Brown RES2.4K XB 2370
Orange, Black, Brown, Brown RES3.0K GA 3010
Orange, Violet, Yellow, Brown RES3.6K NP 3740
Yellow, Violet, Green, Brown RES4.7K FY 4750
Blue, Black, Yellow, Brown RES6.2K C5 6040
Violet, Green, Black, Brown RES7.5K XY 7500
White, Green, Orange, Brown RES10K KB 9530
Brown, Brown, Gray, Red RES12K UW 11800
Where is the VATS module deal located????
06-17-2007, 07:33 PM
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Then, I also came across this info on the net.
Now this leaves me wondering about option 2, but I didn't read anything about that option in here. So, is it even an option? And where is this wire to ground out?
So How Do I Bypass It?
There are 3 ways that I know of:
1. Remove the VATS module.
2. Ground the White/Black wire underneath the dash.
3. Create a 'Resistor Plug'.
1 Explained - To successfully remove the VATS module, you'll need to 'burn' an ECM chip with the VATS feature disabled, or ground the dark blue wire going to the module. I DO NOT know if grounding this wire will successfully remove VATS. I have not tried it. You'll also need to ground the Black/Yellow wire going to the starter relay. The VATS module is located behind the RH side of the instrument panel.
2 Explained - You'll need to cut and splice a new wire into the White/Black wire underneath the dash. Then ground the new wire to a reliable source. I have heard this works but HAVE NOT tried it. You can also wire it to a hidden switch to regain the security you once had.
3 Explained - Under the dash, near the Yellow SIR (airbag) connector, is a 2 wire connector. The black wires go to the lock cylinder. The White/Black wire and the Purple/White wire goes to the VATS module. The White/Black wire and the Purple/White wire connector is a female end. You'll need to go to a junkyard, or somewhere with electrical connectors, and cut out a male end of the same type of connector. Leave about 3 inches of wire on it. Once you have the connector, figure out your key pellet resistance. Go to an electronics store and buy a resistor that's exactly the same resistance or close to it. Solder in the resistor to one end of the connector. If you have any heat shrink, cut some off and put it on now. Then, solder in the other side of the resistor and shrink the heat shrink over the assembly. Plug your 'Resistor Plug' in place of the lock cylinder wires and your done.
What Are The Benefits And Disadvantages Of Each?
1. The removal will take most of the day, if not more. Once out, it can not be easily replaced. It will save you the trouble of having the module itself go bad. And, if you're a serious racer, you'll save weight.
2. Cutting and splicing the original wiring can be annoying, especially if your splice comes undone in the middle of nowhere. It is fairly simple to do and does not require any special resistors or connectors.
3. This is the ideal setup for someone who wants to keep their car intact as mach as possible. This mod can be undone in a minute and you can even wire in a switch if you want.
There are 3 ways that I know of:
1. Remove the VATS module.
2. Ground the White/Black wire underneath the dash.
3. Create a 'Resistor Plug'.
1 Explained - To successfully remove the VATS module, you'll need to 'burn' an ECM chip with the VATS feature disabled, or ground the dark blue wire going to the module. I DO NOT know if grounding this wire will successfully remove VATS. I have not tried it. You'll also need to ground the Black/Yellow wire going to the starter relay. The VATS module is located behind the RH side of the instrument panel.
2 Explained - You'll need to cut and splice a new wire into the White/Black wire underneath the dash. Then ground the new wire to a reliable source. I have heard this works but HAVE NOT tried it. You can also wire it to a hidden switch to regain the security you once had.
3 Explained - Under the dash, near the Yellow SIR (airbag) connector, is a 2 wire connector. The black wires go to the lock cylinder. The White/Black wire and the Purple/White wire goes to the VATS module. The White/Black wire and the Purple/White wire connector is a female end. You'll need to go to a junkyard, or somewhere with electrical connectors, and cut out a male end of the same type of connector. Leave about 3 inches of wire on it. Once you have the connector, figure out your key pellet resistance. Go to an electronics store and buy a resistor that's exactly the same resistance or close to it. Solder in the resistor to one end of the connector. If you have any heat shrink, cut some off and put it on now. Then, solder in the other side of the resistor and shrink the heat shrink over the assembly. Plug your 'Resistor Plug' in place of the lock cylinder wires and your done.
What Are The Benefits And Disadvantages Of Each?
1. The removal will take most of the day, if not more. Once out, it can not be easily replaced. It will save you the trouble of having the module itself go bad. And, if you're a serious racer, you'll save weight.
2. Cutting and splicing the original wiring can be annoying, especially if your splice comes undone in the middle of nowhere. It is fairly simple to do and does not require any special resistors or connectors.
3. This is the ideal setup for someone who wants to keep their car intact as mach as possible. This mod can be undone in a minute and you can even wire in a switch if you want.
Now this leaves me wondering about option 2, but I didn't read anything about that option in here. So, is it even an option? And where is this wire to ground out?
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06-17-2007, 10:24 PM
#8
you're 2000 SS does not have a anti-theft module like the earlier years (lt1 etc) It is part of the BCM (Body Control Module)
I also read in my GM service information, that the BCM will automatically program to the resistance of the key being used on the first ignition ON cycle. This can only be done once for the life of the module.
The BCM reads the resistor in the key, then send the fuel enable, starter enable signals to the PCM, starter enable relay etc.
only steps to get it working again.
Try each of the 15 valid resistor values one at a time by wiring them into the steering column harness going to the lock cylinder. PPL/WHT wire and a WHT/BLK wire.
Try each value and then try to start the car. If it fails to start, you will have to wait 4 minutes with the ignition OFF and try the next value. This could take some time.
I was able to make all 15 values from a varity pack of resistors at radio shack. They dont have to be exact, but + or - 15 ohms or so.
I have some information on my website here showing the values. http://www.lt1swap.com/vats.htm
I also read in my GM service information, that the BCM will automatically program to the resistance of the key being used on the first ignition ON cycle. This can only be done once for the life of the module.
The BCM reads the resistor in the key, then send the fuel enable, starter enable signals to the PCM, starter enable relay etc.
only steps to get it working again.
Try each of the 15 valid resistor values one at a time by wiring them into the steering column harness going to the lock cylinder. PPL/WHT wire and a WHT/BLK wire.
Try each value and then try to start the car. If it fails to start, you will have to wait 4 minutes with the ignition OFF and try the next value. This could take some time.
I was able to make all 15 values from a varity pack of resistors at radio shack. They dont have to be exact, but + or - 15 ohms or so.
I have some information on my website here showing the values. http://www.lt1swap.com/vats.htm
Last edited by busta9876; 06-17-2007 at 10:38 PM.
06-17-2007, 11:18 PM
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Cool, thank you.
Before I go buy all the resistors to try what about just contacting a dealer with my VIN. I saw some reference on the net to be able to give them the VIN and then they could tell you what you need and or cut the right blank for you. Is this for much later model vehicles only? And not an option for my 2000?
Before I go buy all the resistors to try what about just contacting a dealer with my VIN. I saw some reference on the net to be able to give them the VIN and then they could tell you what you need and or cut the right blank for you. Is this for much later model vehicles only? And not an option for my 2000?
06-19-2007, 12:23 AM
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Problem solved, atleast for now. Went to my local Chev dealer and got a new key. Gave the manager my VIN via current Reg. and he gave me a cut key. $36 later and we are back in business. Thank the gods!!!! Super Snail rolls again.......... 
Thanks much for all input/help. Really appreciate it..............
Thanks much for all input/help. Really appreciate it..............
