Couple of Thermostat questions
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Couple of Thermostat questions
This coming up weekend I will be installing a PS cooler and flushing that system as well as flushing the cooling system and installing some hoses and such while I'm into it. I plan on installing a new thermostat since I'll be into everything. Should I go the 160 degree route over the stock one? Can I buy just a thermostat or do I have to get the housing also. My 2000 Camaro LS1 has about 73k miles on it and it is a daily driven car with no track time as of now. Any help would be truly appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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You'll run cooler with a 180*F tstat.......at least my old 427ci did and my new iron 390ci does too. The 160*F will stay open and never close once you reach that 160*F if you're in traffic or driving it aggressively. Then all you have is a constant flowing water heater making it hotter and hotter and hotter.....you'll never give the coolant time to "sit" in the radiator to cool off before returning to the engine. The 180 allows that to happen.
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#3
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You'll run cooler with a 180*F tstat.......at least my old 427ci did and my new iron 390ci does too. The 160*F will stay open and never close once you reach that 160*F if you're in traffic or driving it aggressively. Then all you have is a constant flowing water heater making it hotter and hotter and hotter.....you'll never give the coolant time to "sit" in the radiator to cool off before returning to the engine. The 180 allows that to happen.
#4
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GM changed the water pump and thermostat designs since the car was made. If you have the original water pump, you may find that the new thermostat is different than your original and comes with the cover attached to it.
If you can find an old design thermostat, you should be able to reuse the cover.
If you can find an old design thermostat, you should be able to reuse the cover.
#5
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I have an original water pump. Most parts places lists that if I have the original pump I need an integrated thermo and housing. I just wanted to confirm that is what I needed.
#6
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I think if you have the tstat that they call a ONE piece tstat where the tstat comes already installed in the housing...... the tstat still can be twisted and pushed down to get it out of that housing. Not sure though.
If you have the old housing.....just buy a tstat.
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#9
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Anyone have much luck with the Prestone Coolant Flush Kit? I found an old thread here... https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ions-pics.html ...but pics were missing.
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I am about to do this, hope it helps.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/diy-coo...-flush-157898/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/diy-coo...-flush-157898/
#12
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I'm not sure, but I think these tstats also puch in and twist out.....like my older style tstat housing does. I've replaced just my tstat twice in the same housing. My housing is the one that says Germany on it.
I thin even these from Advance Auto puch in and twist out......but they are sold as one piece tstats.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ls1+thermostat
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I thin even these from Advance Auto puch in and twist out......but they are sold as one piece tstats.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ls1+thermostat
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#13
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Even this one for a 2002 LSx.......it's sold as a one piece tstat. But that tstat pushes down and twists out so you can replace just the tstat.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...erm=thermostat
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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...erm=thermostat
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I, too, considered swapping to a 160* when I did my ps cooler; however, I ultimately decided to just stick with the OE stuff.
ACDelco 187* with original housing: ACDelco 12T84D Thermostat : Amazon.com : Automotive
Might as well put a new radiator cap on there as well: Amazon.com: ACDelco RC94 Radiator Cap: Automotive
ACDelco 187* with original housing: ACDelco 12T84D Thermostat : Amazon.com : Automotive
Might as well put a new radiator cap on there as well: Amazon.com: ACDelco RC94 Radiator Cap: Automotive
#17
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My 427ci (aluminum) ran cooler when I went from a 160 to a 180 tstat.
My current iron 390ci runs just as cool with the 180. I rarely see temps above 200 unless its stop and go with the A/C on. If my A/C is off, nothing I do can make it reach 200.
Hwy cruising it stays around 190 all the time with A/C on.
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My current iron 390ci runs just as cool with the 180. I rarely see temps above 200 unless its stop and go with the A/C on. If my A/C is off, nothing I do can make it reach 200.
Hwy cruising it stays around 190 all the time with A/C on.
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Well...I'm about to to Flush the cooling system and PS system and install a cooler. Any last advice or parts needed? Here is my list...
Upper Rad Hose
Lower Rad Hose
Thermostat and Housing and gasket
Rad Cap
2 gallons Dex Cool coolant
1 bottle system flush
Getting water today
High Press PS hose
cooler
4 ft of rubber hose (2ft came with cooler)
2 quarts of PS fluid (for flush)
2 quarts to fill system
Anything else?
Upper Rad Hose
Lower Rad Hose
Thermostat and Housing and gasket
Rad Cap
2 gallons Dex Cool coolant
1 bottle system flush
Getting water today
High Press PS hose
cooler
4 ft of rubber hose (2ft came with cooler)
2 quarts of PS fluid (for flush)
2 quarts to fill system
Anything else?
#19
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I recall removing unbolting my P/S pump to have better access to the pressure hose attachment. I'm sure it can be done without doing that, but having a P/S pump pulley puller on hand might be good.
Plastic for ground cover and a vessel to accept your flushed fluid.
Beer for the body.
Plastic for ground cover and a vessel to accept your flushed fluid.
Beer for the body.
#20
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I recall removing unbolting my P/S pump to have better access to the pressure hose attachment. I'm sure it can be done without doing that, but having a P/S pump pulley puller on hand might be good.
Plastic for ground cover and a vessel to accept your flushed fluid.
Beer for the body.
Plastic for ground cover and a vessel to accept your flushed fluid.
Beer for the body.