manzo81maro

So I got the car back to Champion Motors today for another dyno session...since the dyno tune, they adjusted the new brakes on the dyno properly...here's the results:




First pull: 328 rwhp/334rwtq, so 14rwhp/9rwtq gain over last time with no changes (13:1 A/F)

Now, I had swapped back to my stock throttle body before I had it tuned because I thought the POTZ was giving me issues...so after this first pull, I threw the POTZ TB back on and put down 336rwhp/342rwtq...however, this resulted in 13.2-13.4:1 A/F (leanest in the midrange)...the tuner was not there to re-tune it, so I'll be going back sometime this week to tune it out.
Car idles the same and has better throttle response, but let me know if you guys think these higher A/F numbers would indicate a vaccum leak, or has the TB actually just increased flow that much??

It's nice to see some more realistic numbers for my mods, but I think it's got just a bit more in it

manzo81maro

I got the UMI LCA relocation brackets in a couple nights ago...install was a little tricky, but not too bad...used this as a guide: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f66/how-in...ackets-148345/
this way, there's no cutting or drilling, just work them on and bolt them in







I've read a few cases on here where the brackets have thrown off the rear-end alignment, but these made no changes to mine (had 2.5" spacing in front and 2" of spacing in rear of both wheels, before and after the brackets)...
The included instructions are pretty straight forward
One problem with this kit is UMI only includes 4 washers for 4 bolts, but you really need 8 (one for each side of each bolt)...the bolt head on the top 7/16" bolt is small and will colapse/damage the hole in the bracket if a washer isn't used...I just used some grade 8 washers I had on hand, but not sure why UMI doesn't just throw in the extra 4 washers

So the car does seem to drive better, feels a little tighter...traction-wise, it does seem to hook better, but I didn't drive the car hard enough to notice a difference...I'm sure I will notice it at the track (hopefully cure the wheel hop on 1-2 shift)

manzo81maro

so today I went back to Champion for another tune & dyno session...turns out the tune was fine (13:1), I'm guessing the car just had to adjust to the throttle body...as for numbers, it put down 336rwhp & 344 rwtq, so +2rwtq gain from saturday! it was pretty humid today though compared to last time...
however, we determined that my clutch is slightly slipping (pretty strong smell of burning clutch after the first run)

so needless to say, there's my next venture...pretty set on a monster level 2 setup with 18LB flywheel & new GM slave

the "snow ball effect" continues lol

manzo81maro

Okay, Monster level 2 single disc kit w/18LB flywheel & new slave is on order from Tick...Thanks for all the info and help Martin!

I decided on this one based on my current and future goals...may go H/C/I not far down the road, and the car will see the track 2-3 times per year, plus all the good I hear/read about this setup...

Any ideas as to how much power that slippery LS6 clutch is costing me?
I can notice it on the street, doesn't completely let go, but the car just seems to stop pulling earlier than it should.....based on dyno dyno #s, I figure the LS6 is tapping out around 390-400 flywheel HP...maybe just the pressure plate failing...

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

Congrats! Those numbers are very close to what my Camaro put down during a recent tune with the cutout open and very similar mods to yours. I don't have a UDP installed but I do have a Dana S60 with 4.10's which is robbing some power. I too am replacing the clutch but chose the McLeod RXT so it is something I won't have to mess with again for a long time. It will be my first time dropping the trans so I am not looking forward to it. It looks like you used a regular jack?

manzo81maro

Thanks! yea it'll be interesting to see if I pick up power on the dyno after the clutch swap & break-in...that S60 of yours will probably be robbing a bit of power, but at least you know it won't break...as far as dropping the trans, I used 2 floor jacks and worked the trans off and lowered it a bit at a time, just had to keep balancing the trans on the jacks...if you have a helper available, it will probably be much easier, as 2 guys could probably just yank the thing out and bring it down by hand...maybe use at least one floor jack to be safe though

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Looking beast dude.

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tip. I have been thinking about a motorcycle lift as I know they are pretty cheap from HF. It is one of those things, as with installing the rearend anything done for the first time is a little daunting but preparing for it makes it a lot easier.

manzo81maro

Clutch kit arrived from Monster today




Just waiting on the ARP bolts & new shift **** from Tick...

vette69

That was quick delivery from monster.... are you also installing a short throw shifter? Your thread is doin great keep us posted on this clutch install. cheers!!!

manzo81maro

Yes delivery was quick, thanks Monster!

I'm sticking to the factory Hurst short throw for now, no complaints...I've missed 3rd once or twice @ the track, but that was probably due to my clutch issues...maybe upgrade to MGW next year, apparently makes quite the difference

vette69

I ordered MGW last week... cant wait to see the difference in shifting with this product... i hear lots of good things about it... hopefully its good...

manzo81maro

so the trans, stock clutch & flywheel are out...had fun gettin the bellhousing off (sarcasm)...just about to pull the old pilot bearing...

got to thinking while I have everything out, I should replace the rear main seal....car only has 40000 miles, but I know if it does leak anytime soon, I'm really gonna wish I replaced it while I was there...

on the other hand, based on past experiences, I'm a believer in the ol' "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theory

I know it depends on how it's being driven, but anyone know what mileage these things let go @ on average?

I figure this clutch will last about 30-40,000 miles, so if the seal will hold up until then, I'll leave it alone

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I would always replace the rear main, pilot and slave during a clutch swap regardless of mileage. 20 bucks for piece of mind is worth every penny.

Just like an oil pump and timing chain on a cam swap. Do it now and have the peace of mind it was done right.

manzo81maro

thanks for the input Martin
...I think I'm just gonna go ahead and replace it...doesn't look like too bad of a job...

manzo81maro

Sorry for the long post, but it's been a while since my last upate:

I got the Monster Level 2 clutch installed, very happy with it so far

Here's how the old components looked when removed, the disc had lots of meat left on it, as you can see the depth of the rivets...just some heat scoring on the flywheel & pressure plate:





I removed the old pilot bearing with a rental 2-jaw bearing puller...it ended up crushing the rollers out of the bearing first, but then it grabbed a good edge and popped the bearing out:



I installed the new bearing using a socket big enough to cover the face of the bearing, and just tapped it in (tap, tap, taparoo!):



I also went ahead and changed the rear main seal while it was staring me in the face...just pried the old one out with a flathead screwdriver, put some RTV around the outside of the new one, and pressed it in by hand:



Weighed everything and came up with about 2-2.5 LBS weight savings with the Monster level 2 & 18LB flywheel, so that should free up some power at the wheels.

New dowel pins are included with the kit, so here's how I got those in:



Wiped the flywheel with brake clean and installed with new ARP bolts, using ARP lube under the bolt head and red loctite on the threads, torqued to 85ft-lbs:


New level 2 disc and alignment tool:


New HD pressure plate installed with stock bolts & red loctite, torqued to 55 ft-lbs:


Getting the bellhousing off took some time because of the steel dowels seized to the aluminum...so before I re-installed, I cleaned up the dowels and applied some anti-seize to them:


New GM slave installed with Tick remote speed bleeder:


Finally got everything back in and torqued up:


Here's a little cherry on top from Hurst:



So it took a little while to get the system bled...ended up having to constantly close the bleeder and pump the pedal hard a few times to force the air to the end of the bleeder, but it eventually all worked out...

As far as pedal height, I started with the pedal about 1.5 inches below the brake pedal, started the car and had a little difficulty going into first...so I adjusted it to just underneath the brake pedal (maybe 1/2"), bled again, and this seems to be a good setting so far...car drives and shifts much smoother than with the stock clutch...it engages closer to the floor than stock, and has just a slightly stiffer pedal than with just the Tick master on stock clutch...I've only put 100kms on the clutch so it will be a while before I can see how it is when driven hard, but so far it definately feels much better than stock, it really is butter smooth...

I'm very happy I went with this setup, and would recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade from stock or just looking for a good street setup...maybe a little overkill for my power level, but I went with the level 2 so that I would have plenty of room to grow (ie. H/C)

So, once break-in is done, I'll see if the track is still open for the year lol, and see if I can get some new 1/4 mile numbers....may also head back to the dyno to see if I have more power @ the wheels

Have to say big thanks for all the input and advice from all...really helped me decide on parts and get through the install without a problem...also thanks to Monster Clutches & Tick Performance for awesome products & great customer service

Will update with new numbers and post break-in review when I can

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Glad the dyno numbers got fixed lol. Im sunning a stage 2 monctser clutch too and couldnt be happier.

manzo81maro

Update:

New clutch is broken in, car drives awesome! very happy with it...
Went to the track last night for test n tune...got a new PB of 13.16 @ 109.78 with only a 2.18 60'...sticky tire mod and I forsee 12's



Haven't made it back to the dyno since the clutch went in, but my track numbers give me a good enough idea of my gains

I think that's all for this year though, car gets stored for the winter...mods for next year maybe 3.90 gears, auburn posi, TA cover, drag radials and maybe a couple more suspension bolt-ons

Texas Blue

iTrader: (7)

Awesome job! I have lots of these mods in my future. Oh, and I'm jealous how clean the underside of your car is! Ridiculously clean man

SarGntoperez

hello i want it to ask you when you bought your ported throttle body from potz i know you did the tb coolant bypass, did they do something to the tb in order to do do the coolant bypass?