DIY ceramic coating
04-09-2013, 02:15 PM
#1
DIY ceramic coating Ive had quite a few questions on this so I'll throw up a little how to.
Step one:
Sandblast the parts. Recommended abrasive is 120 alum oxide. Thats pretty expensive so I use the cheap "Black Diamond". Works great.
The blaster can be as simple as a handheld Speedblaster or could be a cabinet. I have a handheld, big tank type for outside big stuff, and a cabinet blaster.
Step two: clean the parts. I usually blow them off then clean with acetone and dry.
Step three: hang them from something and fill your spray gun with Techline Turbo X coating. You do not need to reduce it down. Stir very well as the solids stick to the bottom. I use a small detail hvlp gun from Harbor Freight and the 8oz cans of coating. Spray a thin coat first, let dry for a few minutes and go back for a full coat. Follow up with another coat to make sure you got everything. The parts can be installed and run as is but I like to cure them in the oven to avoid the big smokey stinky mess running them on the car. The 8oz can for $50 is enough to do two manifolds, two turbines, a crossover, and downpipe (in my experience).
Step four: Heat up the oven to at least 550 and bake for one hour. The coating says it takes a little higher temps to fully cure but in my experience 550 gets it done and the higher temps on the car will do the rest later. They will be dry to the touch in an hr or less so they can be handled easily but you can put them directly in the oven while wet if you want.
Step five: Let them cool off and enjoy the money saved. In my experience you will recoup the cost of the tools with the first turbo setup.
You can get the coating directly from Techline or there are a few other suppliers if you google.
$10 on sale at HF. I buy a few and throw them away after about 5 jobs
I made this rack from 1" square tubing to hang stuff.
Free oven from CL.
I just installed a couple old kitchen range hoods over my welding table and it works good to suck out the fumes. Im planning on installing another over the oven. Make sure to wear a respirator while spraying and have some fresh air avaialble at all times and when the over is on.
Here is how the cured coating looks. They also have blue if thats your thing lol. Ive also used the regular cast grey coating for another project and they looked fantastic as well.
Step one:
Sandblast the parts. Recommended abrasive is 120 alum oxide. Thats pretty expensive so I use the cheap "Black Diamond". Works great.
The blaster can be as simple as a handheld Speedblaster or could be a cabinet. I have a handheld, big tank type for outside big stuff, and a cabinet blaster.
Step two: clean the parts. I usually blow them off then clean with acetone and dry.
Step three: hang them from something and fill your spray gun with Techline Turbo X coating. You do not need to reduce it down. Stir very well as the solids stick to the bottom. I use a small detail hvlp gun from Harbor Freight and the 8oz cans of coating. Spray a thin coat first, let dry for a few minutes and go back for a full coat. Follow up with another coat to make sure you got everything. The parts can be installed and run as is but I like to cure them in the oven to avoid the big smokey stinky mess running them on the car. The 8oz can for $50 is enough to do two manifolds, two turbines, a crossover, and downpipe (in my experience).
Step four: Heat up the oven to at least 550 and bake for one hour. The coating says it takes a little higher temps to fully cure but in my experience 550 gets it done and the higher temps on the car will do the rest later. They will be dry to the touch in an hr or less so they can be handled easily but you can put them directly in the oven while wet if you want.
Step five: Let them cool off and enjoy the money saved. In my experience you will recoup the cost of the tools with the first turbo setup.
You can get the coating directly from Techline or there are a few other suppliers if you google.
$10 on sale at HF. I buy a few and throw them away after about 5 jobs
I made this rack from 1" square tubing to hang stuff.
Free oven from CL.
I just installed a couple old kitchen range hoods over my welding table and it works good to suck out the fumes. Im planning on installing another over the oven. Make sure to wear a respirator while spraying and have some fresh air avaialble at all times and when the over is on.
Here is how the cured coating looks. They also have blue if thats your thing lol. Ive also used the regular cast grey coating for another project and they looked fantastic as well.
04-09-2013, 03:32 PM
#4
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Nice info Nate. Did you do this with your single turbo setup you had before? Never ran into any flaking issues or anything like that? Have you done it to hotside piping that leads to the turbos? Just thinking it could be a nice upgrade on mild steel hotsides.
04-09-2013, 03:40 PM
#5
I didnt have this on mine. No flaking. Yes I have done some hotsides. Im really trying to use stainless now instead of mild steel. By the time I build something in mild and coat it, Id have the same labor into just tig welding stainless and its a nicer final product so really Im just doing manifolds and turbine housings.
04-09-2013, 03:47 PM
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Yeah have your customers that have this stuff put some good miles on their vehicles with the coatings? I hear you on the stainless. If i get a chance to upgrade my turbo i will likely redo my hotside also and give the stainless a go.
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04-09-2013, 04:09 PM
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I have used that stuff and did the coating exactly as the directions said. I have had it on the car for about six months with hardly any run time. Car sits in the garage 95% of the time and i am seeing some rust coming through now. Not happy. I would hope the ceramic coating lasts alot longer than that. Really i have no drive time on the manifolds with the flame proof stuff. The other product i had the same results.
04-09-2013, 08:59 PM
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Ive used it with decent luck on my turbine housing and turboback on my rearmount.put about 5000 miles with no flaking or rust issues,wheater or not it reduces temps idk. Key is prep and curing it properly
04-09-2013, 09:07 PM
#13
With manifolds its tough to get them to hold up long term with the VHT or this stuff even. When spraying it, it doesn't build up as think on the rough casting and over time it rusts. Smooth surface and then sandblasted is best.
And yes its rated to very high temps (2000iirc). Don't use the 1300 degree shiny stuff, that won't hold. There's a reason its called turbox, its made for this purpose.
And yes its rated to very high temps (2000iirc). Don't use the 1300 degree shiny stuff, that won't hold. There's a reason its called turbox, its made for this purpose.
