stock 5.3 vs stock LQ4, which is better for high boost?
10-21-2012, 10:11 AM
#2
Its all in the tune. You keep it conservative they both will last. Plenty of guys have reliable combos on both just if you want it to be "reliable" don't go crazy. Like we all were saying in your other thread both motors will be good just depends on budget. Think of it this way if you could have both motors for the same price what would you pick?
Ill add a little more and others will give their opinion but build everything like turbo kit transmission rear end fuel suspension intercooler etc and pick a motor these are so cheap just do one if it blows up buy another. Once everything around it is done a motor swap is simple. You need the other upgrades no matter what motor you pick.
Ill add a little more and others will give their opinion but build everything like turbo kit transmission rear end fuel suspension intercooler etc and pick a motor these are so cheap just do one if it blows up buy another. Once everything around it is done a motor swap is simple. You need the other upgrades no matter what motor you pick.
Last edited by Camaro9969; 10-21-2012 at 10:29 AM.
10-21-2012, 11:19 AM
#3
Its all in the tune. You keep it conservative they both will last. Plenty of guys have reliable combos on both just if you want it to be "reliable" don't go crazy. Like we all were saying in your other thread both motors will be good just depends on budget. Think of it this way if you could have both motors for the same price what would you pick?
Ill add a little more and others will give their opinion but build everything like turbo kit transmission rear end fuel suspension intercooler etc and pick a motor these are so cheap just do one if it blows up buy another. Once everything around it is done a motor swap is simple. You need the other upgrades no matter what motor you pick.
Ill add a little more and others will give their opinion but build everything like turbo kit transmission rear end fuel suspension intercooler etc and pick a motor these are so cheap just do one if it blows up buy another. Once everything around it is done a motor swap is simple. You need the other upgrades no matter what motor you pick.
Both the 5.3's and LQ4's are not getting any more plentiful, and their price even on the used market has been going up the last few years.
If both are the same strength wise, I would rather have the LQ4. If the 5.3 is slightly stronger due to stronger rods or something, I would rather have the 5.3.
10-21-2012, 12:06 PM
#4
The tune and setup will be the same no matter what the motor. I'm asking if the setup and abuse will be the same, which of the two is stronger (if either). I don't want to be swapping motors every few years. It may be simple for you, but its a headache I'd rather not have to deal with that often.
Both the 5.3's and LQ4's are not getting any more plentiful, and their price even on the used market has been going up the last few years.
If both are the same strength wise, I would rather have the LQ4. If the 5.3 is slightly stronger due to stronger rods or something, I would rather have the 5.3.
Both the 5.3's and LQ4's are not getting any more plentiful, and their price even on the used market has been going up the last few years.
If both are the same strength wise, I would rather have the LQ4. If the 5.3 is slightly stronger due to stronger rods or something, I would rather have the 5.3.
10-21-2012, 03:13 PM
#6
The tune and set up is the same no matter what motor you pick well whats the turbo? Theres a lot of factors that go in its not just a slap a turbo on and yoyr set ....If you want something to last a few years I suggest don't do a stock motor and do a forged motor. If the reasoning on stock motor is budget just do a cam heads maybe some spray because no boost is going to be reliable on a stock motor for years.
I am still researching the combo I want to go with, but as of right now the plan is;
PT7675
FMIC
E85
Rod bolts, main/head studs
New rings/bearings
LS9 gaskets
Good springs and pushrods
Z06 cam
(All other internals will be stock)
Double roller timing chain
If its a 5.3, I'll use the heads I currently have on the car, if its the LQ4, I'll have the 317 heads ported
LS6 intake
Again the above is just the most probable setup, not necessarily the one I'll stick with when the time comes.
Thanks for the great info! This was just the type of info I am looking for here.
Last edited by CALL911; 10-21-2012 at 03:19 PM.
10-21-2012, 05:26 PM
#7
"The LS9 camshaft is a 3 bolt design and will use the Lingenfelter 3 bolt cam conversion kit if you are installing it in a single bolt application like the 2007 – 2010 LS2 or LS3. If you are installing it in an earlier LS1 or LS6 engine with the cam sensor at the back of the engine you will need a 2005 LS2 front cover, 2005 1x cam sprocket, camshaft extension harness, 2005 LS2 chain dampner."
And some cam specs:
LS6 Cam (’01): 204/211 @ 0.050; 0.525/0.525; 116 LSA
LS6 Cam (’02+): 204/218 @ 0.050; 0.555/0.551; 117.5 LSA
LS9 Cam ---->: 211/230 @ 0.050; 0.562/0.558; 122.5 LSA
IMO the LS9 cam is the best boost cam for the money, period.
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10-21-2012, 05:57 PM
#8
The 6.0 is essentially the same as the 5.3 except it has a 4" bore instead of the 3.78" bore. More cubes = less boost you need to reach your goal. I ran my 5.3 at 18lbs and it was a 00' with the "weaker" rods. Took it apart and looked as good as day one. My 6.0 I'm throwing in is also a year 2000 and I'm not afraid to boost the hell out of it. Theirs a guy on YouTube with an s10 that's running 25lbs boost and a 125 shot of nitrous and that's with an older style block with out the ls2 rods. Yeah it would bee nice to get a 05'+ block for the peace of mind but don't be afraid to get an older one.
10-22-2012, 10:21 AM
#11
The tune and setup will be the same no matter what the motor. I'm asking if the setup and abuse will be the same, which of the two is stronger (if either). I don't want to be swapping motors every few years. It may be simple for you, but its a headache I'd rather not have to deal with that often.
If you dont want to swap the motor out in 2 years then don't run stock ****. I don't think anyone on here who is pushing stock stuff expects it to last as long as your looking for.
10-22-2012, 01:01 PM
#13
Staging Lane
10-22-2012, 01:35 PM
#15
10-22-2012, 02:46 PM
#16
For someone who has been here as long as you, you sure do ask a lot of loaded questions that could be answered with a simple search.
If you dont want to swap the motor out in 2 years then don't run stock ****. I don't think anyone on here who is pushing stock stuff expects it to last as long as your looking for.
If you dont want to swap the motor out in 2 years then don't run stock ****. I don't think anyone on here who is pushing stock stuff expects it to last as long as your looking for.
This thread is already gone too far
10-22-2012, 03:06 PM
#17
For someone who has been here as long as you, you sure do ask a lot of loaded questions that could be answered with a simple search.
If you dont want to swap the motor out in 2 years then don't run stock ****. I don't think anyone on here who is pushing stock stuff expects it to last as long as your looking for.
If you dont want to swap the motor out in 2 years then don't run stock ****. I don't think anyone on here who is pushing stock stuff expects it to last as long as your looking for.
I'm not expecting it to last forever, but give what people are running on here (less conservative than me for longer than I plan on it lasting), I don't see why it can't be done. It's not like I am boosting the stock LS1 here.
If you don't like my thread, you don't have to post in it, or even read it.
10-22-2012, 04:08 PM
#18
And depending on what Gen motor you get (III vs IV), you could run the LS9 cam for pretty cheap as the Gen IV will already have the correct cam gear needed.
"The LS9 camshaft is a 3 bolt design and will use the Lingenfelter 3 bolt cam conversion kit if you are installing it in a single bolt application like the 2007 – 2010 LS2 or LS3. If you are installing it in an earlier LS1 or LS6 engine with the cam sensor at the back of the engine you will need a 2005 LS2 front cover, 2005 1x cam sprocket, camshaft extension harness, 2005 LS2 chain dampner."
And some cam specs:
LS6 Cam (’01): 204/211 @ 0.050; 0.525/0.525; 116 LSA
LS6 Cam (’02+): 204/218 @ 0.050; 0.555/0.551; 117.5 LSA
LS9 Cam ---->: 211/230 @ 0.050; 0.562/0.558; 122.5 LSA
IMO the LS9 cam is the best boost cam for the money, period.
"The LS9 camshaft is a 3 bolt design and will use the Lingenfelter 3 bolt cam conversion kit if you are installing it in a single bolt application like the 2007 – 2010 LS2 or LS3. If you are installing it in an earlier LS1 or LS6 engine with the cam sensor at the back of the engine you will need a 2005 LS2 front cover, 2005 1x cam sprocket, camshaft extension harness, 2005 LS2 chain dampner."
And some cam specs:
LS6 Cam (’01): 204/211 @ 0.050; 0.525/0.525; 116 LSA
LS6 Cam (’02+): 204/218 @ 0.050; 0.555/0.551; 117.5 LSA
LS9 Cam ---->: 211/230 @ 0.050; 0.562/0.558; 122.5 LSA
IMO the LS9 cam is the best boost cam for the money, period.
Thanks for the good info. I'll keep that in mind when it comes time to pick out a cam.
The 6.0 is essentially the same as the 5.3 except it has a 4" bore instead of the 3.78" bore. More cubes = less boost you need to reach your goal. I ran my 5.3 at 18lbs and it was a 00' with the "weaker" rods. Took it apart and looked as good as day one. My 6.0 I'm throwing in is also a year 2000 and I'm not afraid to boost the hell out of it. Theirs a guy on YouTube with an s10 that's running 25lbs boost and a 125 shot of nitrous and that's with an older style block with out the ls2 rods. Yeah it would bee nice to get a 05'+ block for the peace of mind but don't be afraid to get an older one.
I trust skinnies and your opinion a lot. You are the guys with the experience. Why do you say though that the 5.3 should be better?
10-22-2012, 04:33 PM
#19
Grr, attempt two, browser crashed for some reason and killed my entire response, lol.
First, built motor with forged pistons can not run as tight of piston to wall clearances ad a stock motor with hypereutectic pistons. Thus at start up the pistons are kind of bobble heading around and will wear more until they come up to temperature when compared to a stock piston. So, rings wear waster than a stock motor. I generally think with a 2618 aluminum 50k is about max. If you get into some of the 4000 series alloys they do not need as much piston to wall, but they are also not nearly as strong.
For the 5.3 vs the 6.0, they 6.0 is going to have more backpressure on that turbo than the 5.3. The 5.3 is also going to land more in the efficiency range of the turbo than a 6.0. That is my speculation. You may have to run a tad more boost to make the same hp, but it will be easier on the turbo and the motor as you will have reduced backpressure. There is a reason why there are 4 cylinder cars making 750 at the wheels on a single Garrett GT35R and a V8 can not come close to that!
I also feel that the 5.3 aluminum will be every bit as strong as the cast iron 6.0. The sleeves are super thick and aluminum blocks can be just as strong. Also less reciprocating mass compared to the larger piston 6.0 which means you can spin it up a little higher without fear.....all just thoughts. I know there are tons of guys making big hp with the 6.0 and there is nothing wrong with them. I just choose the 5.3 (and I did for the build I am working on right now).
First, built motor with forged pistons can not run as tight of piston to wall clearances ad a stock motor with hypereutectic pistons. Thus at start up the pistons are kind of bobble heading around and will wear more until they come up to temperature when compared to a stock piston. So, rings wear waster than a stock motor. I generally think with a 2618 aluminum 50k is about max. If you get into some of the 4000 series alloys they do not need as much piston to wall, but they are also not nearly as strong.
For the 5.3 vs the 6.0, they 6.0 is going to have more backpressure on that turbo than the 5.3. The 5.3 is also going to land more in the efficiency range of the turbo than a 6.0. That is my speculation. You may have to run a tad more boost to make the same hp, but it will be easier on the turbo and the motor as you will have reduced backpressure. There is a reason why there are 4 cylinder cars making 750 at the wheels on a single Garrett GT35R and a V8 can not come close to that!
I also feel that the 5.3 aluminum will be every bit as strong as the cast iron 6.0. The sleeves are super thick and aluminum blocks can be just as strong. Also less reciprocating mass compared to the larger piston 6.0 which means you can spin it up a little higher without fear.....all just thoughts. I know there are tons of guys making big hp with the 6.0 and there is nothing wrong with them. I just choose the 5.3 (and I did for the build I am working on right now).
