LQ9CHEVELLE

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, ive done over 20+ automatic LS conversions in a multitude of cars, but have never done a T56 manual one. Im looking to put a T56 into my 72 chevelle, behind a turbocharged 6.0 w/ L92 CNC heads. I currently dont have a transmission, and am looking for a complete T56 assembly with the hydraulic T/0 bearing and assocciated hardware required. I have a couple questions untill then, please help!

1) I see alot of people cutting their trans tunnel out completely...is this necessary?

2) can u use the stock crossmember and just modify the mount for the trans, or is it easier to Fab up a new crossmember?

3) Do you need a donor clutch pedal assembly from another T56 equipped car? my car still has a 4spd pedal assembly with the rod coming through the firewall, i wonder if I can tie that into the hydraulic cylinder somehow to keep the pedals stock

4) IS there a preferred T56 to use? I was figuring a camaro or GTO trans, but I know they came in vipers also.

5) What is the best / most cost effective way to move the shifter forward. I dont want to be reaching between the seats to shift! Is the stock shifter location really that bad?

Sorry guys i know alot of questions. This might be a good thread to compile though for everything "you" (me and others) need to know about T56 trannies.

Thanks in advance!

ryanvv355

iTrader: (17)

1) Yes, the T56 is much taller towards the rear compared to a TH350/400 the car was designed for.

2) Yes, But fabrication will be required, It could be beneficial to build one.

3) No need for donor pedal, you can build an adpater bracket for the clutch master and operate it off the factory A-body pedal.

4) Viper versions are stronger than GM's

5) Dont know.

kst8engineer

iTrader: (6)

1) You can do it with some t-shaped cuts across the tunnel, spread the sheetmetal, and reweld. I'm in the middle of doing it this way, but I'm beginning to think that cutting the whole tunnel out might have been easier in the long run.

2) Yes, you can cut the tab off, flip it over, and reweld to get the proper angle. With my motor mount setup (early BRP-style pates) and F-body pan, I'm even able to reuse the factory crossmember mounting holes in the frame. It was a very simple mod.

4) From what I've read, I think the Viper T56 uses the forward shifter location, so your decision may depend on where you want the shifter to be.

5) From what I'm seeing on my swap, with the shifter in the stock Camaro (rear) shifter position on the T56, the shifter sits right at the front edge of the seats (just about right in my opinion), so I'm not seeing any relocation being necessary.

LambSkin71

iTrader: (2)

I just finished this swap myself, well the trans tunnel part at least. I started out with the T-cut, but the further along i got the bigger and longer the cut got, and it was evident that when it came time to put it back together things wouldent line up propperly and the tunnel would look like crap. So I cut the entire tunnel out and fabbed one out of sheet metal. Now Im not saying it looks better, but everything fits, i.e. the reverse lockout switch and my angle is perfect on the tailshaft, less than 2 deg. Besides it was fun fabbing it and i learned alot about welding. You can check it out at.
www.retrolsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70

bczee

iTrader: (12)

1) NO.. but it might be easier.. I only cut the top part off.

2) Yes if it is a TH350, then cut the tab off and flip it over. Adjust for the correct tilt.

3) You can use your 4 sp A-body pedals, just use adapter plate behind the booster for the Hyd master.

4) No.. but different ones have different locations of the shifter. I ended up using a Viper T56 cause of the more forward location of the shifter ( and it is a stronger one).

5) The F-body is just abit rearward.. you can try and look into the McLeod relocation and shifters.. or use a viper configure one as I did. I did because I was using a Bench seat aand the F-Body one came up right into the front part of the bench seat.

Good luck.

LQ9CHEVELLE

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, looks like im gonna look for a Fbody or GTO complete T56 setup so i can get started. Does the viper T56 bolt to the chevrolet bellhousing? Is the input shaft the same? Sounds like just cutting the trans tunnel out is the way to go, probably cleaner than slicing, bending and dicing the stock one. Shooting for 650+ rear wheel horsepower with this setup, hopefully the trans can hang with it for a while. Im not gonna be slicking it down and drag launching the **** out of it, so hopefully it will live

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

There are a number of places that offer conversion kits. Might be more expensive, but they are a good source of information also.

this site has a lot of info on T56's.
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/

From what I gather, the later model T56's don't fail like the early F body units do. If you get a new aftermarket unit it will have both. this page lists the various T56's and their torque ratings.

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/6_speed.html

Kiesler sells all sorts of swap kits, might have one for you

http://www.keislerauto.com/

D&D has a lot of good info also. Just click on a pic

http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/in...p?cPath=107_92

bczee

iTrader: (12)

To use a Viper T56, you will have to repalce the bell housing with a GM one. It will bolt up to the Viper mid or adapter plate.

The Adapter plate between the trans and bell housing shuold be replace. But I didn't I adapted the F-Body Throwout Bearing to the Viper Bolt pattern. You can see my build in my cardomain site, link in my sig.

The inputshaft will need to be replaced as well as the output yoke.

If you don't rework the Trans tunnel.. you will have to move the engine very far forward and drop it as low as you can, that will cause modifications to notching the oil pan and/or the crossmember. Else the engine/trans will have a very large tilt (more than 5 deg).

The McLeod shifter relocation kit, to use one of the forward plates location, (I think B&M now owns them) is kinda costly.. You would pertty much have to also include labor to almost completely rebuild the trans to use it. And then a Shifer. I think in the area of $750+ to do it. That is one of the reason I went with the Viper T56.. and also got a stronger trans to boot. May cost more than a GM T56, but if your going to use one, it was cheaper that the McLeod mod..

the450r

iTrader: (1)

how do you seal the body to the T56? i bought a ls1 camaro boot but it looks way too wide for an A body floor

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I just used a Hurst Super Boot..

owen v8litew8

using the F-body T56 with a kinked pro-5.0 shifter (I think?) that angles the **** ahead a little will be what you want for keeping the shifter forward.

crmd37

99 LQ4 + 2002 LS T56 (out of f-body) is what I currently have

Sorry to hijack 7 years later lol, but I've been doing way too much research for my 1999 LQ4 swap mating with a T56 and apparently need an adapter plate. Is there any info on one that doesn't cost $400-600+? I heard the input shaft is longer or something on 99-01 LQ4 motors but don't know how or what to do in order to fix that. I already have the cloth pedal assembly and hydraulic clutch linkage. Will I need anything else?

I'm basically about to remove the LQ4 out of my truck and start fitting things together but if it makes more sense for me to sell the truck and try to buy a 2002 or newer truck/van/whatever the LQ4 can come out of. PLEASE HELP!!! Also, please speak in layman's terms haha I'm quite novice to technical jargon regarding internals of transmissions and what not

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

The crank is longer at the rear of the 99-00 LQ4 motors. The 01 and up have the shorter crank with an adapter that can be removed so your T56 would bolt right up. Personally I would sell the truck if it's all together and get yourself a newer motor. Another benefit of the 01+ would be the aluminum heads.

crmd37

Hey there 1964SS I am the local Arizona guy that has chatted with you. I appreciate the feedback and I honestly am seeing that as a better option. Wife won't like it lol but what can you do? It seems as if I need to change heads, get an adapter plate, and one or two more expensive *** things in order to make my swap finished. Ugh, oh well. Better find out at this stage than later on

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Crmd37,

If the crank looks like it can have .400" removed and still seal at the rear main seal, it is the long one; not compatible with the T56 flywheels.

If there's no way you could remove 0.400" without losing seal, it is a compatible crank for T56. There shouldn't be any adapter plate involved.

Hope that helps and I am local too if you need some expertise.

crmd37

But this would require removal of the motor from the truck, the LQ4 I mean. Correct? Or I would have to drop the trans in order to see?

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

If it's a 1999 truck with a 4L80e and iron heads it's pretty certain that it's the longer crank.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

True, and you'll have to back the trans. off.